The company installing our pool ran short of wet mix by about 4 yd3 (3 m3). The pressure truck left, leaving one finisher behind. It was about an hour before the last of the material arrived and what had already been placed had pretty much set. He added about 20 gal. (76 L) of water so he could get it in place. The fully exposed areas, I feel, would be OK. However, the long tapered overlays concern me for strength; it seems like more of a patch. Since it was not shot in place to compress and integrate it, will it bond and strengthen properly?

Proper shotcrete placement of concrete depends on high-velocity impact of the concrete materials for full consolidation. Though not clear from your inquiry, it sounds like the additional concrete was just dumped in place without high-velocity impact. Thus, you simply have normal cast concrete that would require some type of external vibration to densify and properly consolidate the concrete. The bond of cast concrete would be inferior to the bond from shotcrete since you do not have the high-velocity impact driving the cement paste into the previously shot material. Also, adding 20 gal. of water at the site would substantially weaken the concrete from the original design strength of the concrete mixture. Further, feathering edging in a joint is not recommended since you end up with a very thin overlay at some point that may tend to spall or delaminate much more easily at the thinner section. A better approach when running short of concrete is to stop and prepare a joint for later shotcreting. For best bond, joints should be cut at a 45-degree angle, roughened, and then cleaned and wetted immediately before shooting.

Thus, answering your final question, in summary the bond will be reduced, and with the higher water content, the concrete will be weaker than properly shotcreted concrete.

We are currently working on a job that requires integral color for a sculpted rock facing, but the plant close to the job does not supply color. The DOT we are working for has informed us they will not approve the use of retarder in the mixture so we can order the colored mixture from a plant that is 50 minutes away from the site because they are worried about long-term strength of the material decreasing. Do you know of any literature that we can provide to the DOT regarding effects of retarder on 28-day strength of shotcrete?

Shotcrete is concrete. PCA’s Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures, 16th Edition states: “In general, some reduction in strength at early ages (one to three days) accompanies the use of retarders. However, increased long-term strength may result from retarding the initial rate of hydration. Excessive addition rates of a retarding admixture may permanently inhibit the hydration of cement.” Thus, if you closely follow the admixture manufacturer’s recommendations for dosage, you may get higher long-term strength than non-retarded mixtures. You may also consider use of the newer hydration control admixtures that essentially stop hydration until activated, and can theoretically put the concrete “to sleep” for up to 3 days.

I have three apartment buildings (with three, four, and five units). Their basements were insulated just over 10 years ago with closed cell spray foam with a class one fire rating. Now for some reason, the building inspector says I have to cover the foamed walls of all three large basements with 0.5 in. (12 mm) drywall and build stud walls to hang the drywall for fire protection. This would reduce the width of the basement stairs significantly, and they would become so narrow that they would then be out of compliance. These basement walls are uneven field­­stone foundations, with bumps, protrusions, and even some curves. I was thinking that shotcrete-applied concrete might work much better and be more appropriate than wood and drywall for a sometimes-moist basement. According to the local Building Code, a 2 in. (50 mm) layer of concrete would suffice. How can a shotcrete application be made to adhere to closed cell foam? The wall heights are approximately 7 ft (2 m) plus bond.

Shotcrete is just a placement method for concrete. So shotcreting will provide the fire resistance of concrete. For securing the concrete, you can place anchors through the foam into the original basement wall. You can consult with an engineer experienced with shotcrete on anchor size and spacing required for supporting the shotcrete layer.

There is a dam rehabilitation project where stepped reinforced cement concrete (RCC) was used for overflow protection. The surface is spalling rather badly and testing indicated that the RCC was marginal for long-term durability. Is it feasible to place shotcrete over RCC to improve aesthetics and provide additional strength and durability?

Shotcrete has been used for over 100 years for slope stabilization on natural soils. Your self-consolidating concrete (SCC) sounds like it could be considered a high-grade soil, so stabilization and protection of the SCC with shotcrete is certainly a good application for shotcrete. The fresh surface of the shotcrete can receive a wide variety of finishes, from an as-shot finish (rough) to a floated or even stamped or carved look. You should consider appropriate amounts of reinforcement (reinforcing bars and/or fibers) to control potential shrinkage cracking, as appropriate for your exposure and serviceability requirements.

Are there industry-standard design guides for the design of formwork for shotcrete? I have reviewed the technical questions and found the article “Dynamic Forces during Shotcreting Operations” by Frederic Gagnon and Marc Jolin, but the impact loads in this article are quite small (approximately 90 lb [40 kg] per nozzle application), and I feel uncomfortable using that as the sole design load. However, since there is little to no hydrostatic load from shotcrete, I am having a difficult time coming up with a reasonable design load in lieu of this.

Shotcrete placement produces very localized pressure on the one-sided forms we typically use. The 90 lb (40 kg) is a reasonable figure when shooting directly against the form. If shooting thick walls, we typically use a benching approach for placement that puts most of the force directly on the supporting floor (or earth) and putting little force on the form. Thus, the form is more of a way to define the back surface. You will often see shotcrete forms in lower-height applications using thin forming materials such as Masonite, pegboard, or even a stay-form for the formed surface. Often, the larger load controlling the design on a form may be the wind loads expected during the construction period.

I have a project where the foundation sub is planning to shotcrete foundations walls instead of pouring them. They’ve submitted all the procedural things necessary to prove their competence and know what they’re doing. For a portion of our foundation, we’re immediately adjacent to an existing building. The sub mentioned today on site that they were not planning to put Styrofoam or anything between our new wall and the existing wall that would resist lateral pressure from the fluid concrete and the question was raised whether this is ok or not (FYI there is still rigid insulation, waterproofing, etc.). The argument is that the concrete is obviously stiff enough to stay in place, thanks to the nozzle-applied admixture, without an interior form that it wouldn’t be exerting any lateral pressure on the adjacent wall. I can follow that logic and almost buy it but I’m wondering if we still need something to resist the force applied from actually shooting the concrete in place?

Shotcrete is a high-velocity placement of concrete. In most thick walls, as I imagine your foundation walls are, the shotcrete contractor will be bench shooting the walls. This means they will be shooting the full wall thickness in 3 to 4 ft (0.9 to 1.2 m) high lifts where most of the impact forces and weight of the shotcrete is carried by the previously shot material. This results in very low impact forces on the back side of the section. When creating a section with a one-sided form, shotcrete contractors have used thin material, like Masonite, pegboard, or even an expanded mesh material, as we just need to have a surface to define the back of the section.

What is the cure time for shotcrete?

Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete construction. Shotcrete-placed concrete should be properly cured to provide desired strength and reduce potential shrinkage. ACI 308.1-11, “Specification for Curing Concrete,” and ACI 308R-16, “Guide to External Curing of Concrete” are excellent reference documents. ASA recommends curing a minimum of 7 days, and prefers curing with water, maintaining a continuously wet surface condition for the 7-day period. If using a curing membrane instead of water curing, ASA recommends applying the curing membrane at twice the curing membrane manufacturer’s recommended application rate, and applying in two layers with the second perpendicular to the first. If applying a coating over the final concrete surface, you should check with the coating supplier to verify the duration and properties required before application of the coating.

We are looking for the application of shotcrete on tidal waters. We are located on Lower Puget sound in Washington state and need examples where this has been used and is holding up under the moving tides. The examples don’t have to be applied to our area; the same conditions may apply to other saltwater areas.

Shotcrete is a placement method for high-quality concrete. Here’s a link to an article of a rehabilitation of a concrete-supported lighthouse in the Saint Lawrence Seaway (Pointe de la Prairie Lighthouse) that provides a lot of detail on an installation similar to yours, including salt-water exposure in a tidal zone: (shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Sum_Sustainability.pdf). Plus, this project also has extreme freezing-and-thawing exposure.

We had a spa added to an existing pool. The shotcrete was too liquid and sloughed off to the bottom. The shotcrete contractor scooped the sloughed material from the bottom with his hands and put it back on the wall. There are fissures and holes in the wall. There was also reinforcing steel close to the surface of the wall. The cold joint at the existing pool wall wasn’t prepared. They added a shotcrete seat to the existing pool over the old Marcite with no removal or roughening up of the surface. They then refused to water cure it. There wasn’t enough reinforcing steel and formwork from the pool company, so the shotcrete contractor had to stop and add more steel from steel I had lying around. So, the shotcrete sat in the truck for quite a while before shooting. We are concerned about the quality of the pool.

You are correct in suspecting quality issues with your pool. These are the specific issues that lead to poor quality, that can affect the serviceability and durability of your pool.

  1. Shotcrete placement requires high velocity and impact for compaction of the concrete. Hand-applying “sloughed-off” concrete would not provide proper compaction needed for producing monolithic concrete sections. The resultant fissures and voids in your pool reflect the lack of proper velocity and compaction.
  2. Proper preparation of the substrate is essential for good bond and creating a concrete section that acts monolithically. The surface needs to have any materials that would interfere with the bond removed, be roughened, cleaned, and brought to a saturated surface-dry condition before shotcrete placement. This article from Shotcrete magazine gives more details on how and why surface preparation is important (shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf).
  3. Concrete cover over the reinforcing bar is critical for maintaining corrosion protection of the embedded steel, and thus providing long-term durability. Low cover will often result in premature corrosion and subsequent spalling of the concrete cover, reducing the serviceability and life of the pool concrete.
  4. Curing is important for all concrete, and especially for the relatively cement-rich concrete we use for wet-mix shotcrete. Curing essentially provides additional water to hydrate the cement in the concrete, and produces stronger, less permeable concrete. Not curing concrete yields concrete that is weaker, more permeable, and ultimately less suitable for creating a watertight pool shell.
  5. You haven’t indicated the actual time concrete sat for “a while.” Industry standards are that concrete should be placed within 90 minutes of the introduction of water to the mixture unless special precautions are taken. Water is usually added at the ready mix plant. If concrete sits too long it can start to lose workability. At the point of losing workability, some contractors will add additional water on site over and above the concrete mixture design requirements, but this “retempering” produces concrete that is weaker and more permeable than the original design mixture.

Based on your input, you have many good reasons to ask the contractor to provide full remediation of these quality issues.

We are a small community in south central Illinois with a deteriorating masonry building issue that drastically needs to be addressed. I have been looking at your shotcrete product and I am thinking that this may be the most efficient and economical way to protect these exposed surfaces from the elements and stabilize these structures. My question to you is: Have any other communities used this product for this purpose, can this product be used in a situation such as ours, or am I just barking up the wrong tree? The wall in question is three stories tall, about 40 ft (12 m); the exposed wall was interior multi-course thick masonry from the late 1800s-era.

Your proposed project is a great application for shotcrete. We’ve seen shotcrete used for enhancing structural integrity of historic masonry structures across the country. Often shotcrete is used on the back side of the wall to add structural strength while preserving the exterior appearance. In effect, we build a structural concrete wall in-place behind the old wall. Shotcrete has the natural advantage of not requiring any formwork, and can create a good bond to the existing wall, letting the structure elements work together. Here’s a link to a past article from Shotcrete magazine documenting the restoration of a historic brick building (shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2009Win_SCM01pg08-12.pdf). If you don’t need to preserve the exterior appearance, you can certainly shotcrete the exterior of the wall using the same approach. You can finish the interior (or exterior) surfaces in a variety of ways to provide the architectural appearance you desire. Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete, so using shotcrete will provide a final structure with the strength and durability of cast concrete. By the way, the term “gunite” is the old tradename for what we currently call “dry-mix shotcrete.” Let us know if you have any further questions.