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PoolQ We are in the process of renovating a commercial pool with a gutter system. The plaster surface has been removed along with some of the concrete. The wall of the gutter on the water side is tiled and is crumbling away. Our plan is to shotcrete the walls and gutter. When we shoot the walls back we will be adding 1 to 2 in. (25 to 51 mm) of shotcrete at a maximum. Is this too thin for shotcrete? Also, the gutter edge will be 2 in. (51 mm) thick and 4 in. (102 mm) in height without any reinforcing bar—will this have much strength?
Shotcrete can be placed as thin as 1 to 2 in. (25 to 51 mm), but will do little more than to provide a new surface to apply the plaster. To do a proper job you need to remove all loose and deteriorated existing shotcrete and should likely add in a layer of reinforcement or use structural fibers (either steel or synthetic) in the shotcrete mixture. The surface preparation should be done to the standards outlined by the International Concrete Repair Institute (ICRI).
PoolQ We are in the swimming pool design and construction industry as a general contractor. We subcontracted a large percentage of the work to complete a project — namely, the shotcrete of the pool shell, and were very unhappy with the results. The walls are not plumb and areas are not shot to the full thickness. We didn’t check out the contractor’s current work and he is incapable of making any repairs. We have done corrective chipping and bush hammering to get the walls plumb and areas at the proper grade. However, many areas need to be filled to the proper thickness up to 2 in. (50 mm). Can this be done with either a dry or wet mix? Do you need to bush hammer a recessed area to accept a minimum amount of new material in lieu of a feather edge? Is a wet mix acceptable to fill these areas given that the aggregate in it is generally up to 0.375 in. (9.5 mm) or so? With the dry mix being primarily concrete sand and cement it would seem more practical.
As you discovered, experience of the shotcrete contractor is key to a successful project. It takes an experienced and knowledgeable shotcrete team (the project manager, supervisor, pump or gun operator, nozzlemen, and finishers) to get a quality job. Answering your specific questions:
- Can this be done with either a dry or wet mix? Yes, either wet or dry mix will produce good results. You must be sure to properly prepare the substrate including chipping/bush hammering back to sound concrete, fully cleaning the surface and then bringing the surface to a saturated surface-dry condition (SSD).
- Do you need to bush a recessed area to accept a minimum amount of new material in lieu of a feather edge? Feather edging will create a very thin layer that would have more potential to spall when exposed to shrinkage or seasonal thermal movements. We recommend creating a square shoulder at least 0.75 in. (19.0 mm) deep to create an acceptable thickness of the patching layer.
- Is a wet mix acceptable to fill these areas given that the aggregate in it is generally up to 0.375 in. or so? With the dry-mix being primarily concrete sand and cement it would seem more practical. Wet-mix with a coarse aggregate can be shot in thin layers, but with a 0.375 in. coarse aggregate may require more finishing due to impact depressions of the aggregate in the shot surface. A dry-mix material without coarse aggregate may be easier to fill in the thin layers. Dry mix is typically less productive in volume placed per hour than wet mix, but in this relatively small-volume repair application, either process should be fine.
PoolQ We are reinforcing an exterior pool wall with shotcrete, and wanted to know what preparations need to take place for the shotcrete to adhere correctly, and what the minimum thickness needs to be? We also need to level out the floor up to 5 in. (125 mm) that will gradually go to zero to meet other side. Can shotcrete be used in this application?
When shooting onto existing concrete sections the surface must be properly prepared and then shotcreted with proper shotcrete materials, equipment, and placement techniques. This will produce a construction joint that acts monolithically and not be a “cold” joint. Shotcrete placed onto an existing concrete surface will provide an excellent bond IF the following conditions are met:
- Make sure the surface is roughened and clean.
- The amplitude of roughness should be +/- 1/16th in. (1.6 mm) or more.
- If the surface was not roughened when it was chipped out, be sure to have the contractor roughen it.
- A high-pressure water blaster (5000 psi [35 MPa] or more) or abrasive blasting can help to roughen and clean the surface.
- Bring the concrete surface to saturated surface dry (SSD) condition. This means the surface feels damp, but water is not picked up on a hand.
- Make sure the shotcrete placement is properly executed with high velocity placement and quality materials.
- The shotcrete should have a minimum 28-day compressive strength of 4000 psi (28 MPa).
- Be sure the shotcrete contractor is using an air compressor able to produce at least 185 ft3/min (5.2 m3/min) for wet-mix and 385 ft3/min (11 m3/min) for dry-mix (gunite) of air flow at 120 psi (0.8 MPa).
- Use of an ACI-certified shotcrete nozzleman is recommended.
- No bonding agent should be used. It will interfere with the natural bonding characteristics of shotcrete placement.
- A minimum thickness of no less than ½ in. (13 mm) is recommended.
This article on the excellent bond between shotcrete provides more detail: shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf:
Regarding the additional floor thickness, though it may be shotcreted by an experienced nozzleman, it is difficult to properly shoot horizontal surfaces and control rebound and overspray from the shotcrete placement. We suggest that casting and vibrating for consolidation the horizontal sections is preferred to shotcreting. You should consider a bonding agent since the concrete is cast against the existing concrete floor without any impact velocity. We would also not recommend tapering down to 0 in. thickness. The feather edge will tend to be an area that may easily spall over time. Thus, we recommend cutting an ½ to ¾ in. (13 to 19 mm) deep shoulder so the concrete can have some thickness at its thinnest locations.
- Make sure the surface is roughened and clean.
PoolQ We had a spa added to an existing pool. The shotcrete was too liquid and sloughed off to the bottom. The shotcrete contractor scooped the sloughed material from the bottom with his hands and put it back on the wall. There are fissures and holes in the wall. There was also reinforcing steel close to the surface of the wall. The cold joint at the existing pool wall wasn’t prepared. They added a shotcrete seat to the existing pool over the old Marcite with no removal or roughening up of the surface. They then refused to water cure it. There wasn’t enough reinforcing steel and formwork from the pool company, so the shotcrete contractor had to stop and add more steel from steel I had lying around. So, the shotcrete sat in the truck for quite a while before shooting. We are concerned about the quality of the pool.
You are correct in suspecting quality issues with your pool. These are the specific issues that lead to poor quality, that can affect the serviceability and durability of your pool.
- Shotcrete placement requires high velocity and impact for compaction of the concrete. Hand-applying “sloughed-off” concrete would not provide proper compaction needed for producing monolithic concrete sections. The resultant fissures and voids in your pool reflect the lack of proper velocity and compaction.
- Proper preparation of the substrate is essential for good bond and creating a concrete section that acts monolithically. The surface needs to have any materials that would interfere with the bond removed, be roughened, cleaned, and brought to a saturated surface-dry condition before shotcrete placement. This article from Shotcrete magazine gives more details on how and why surface preparation is important (shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf).
- Concrete cover over the reinforcing bar is critical for maintaining corrosion protection of the embedded steel, and thus providing long-term durability. Low cover will often result in premature corrosion and subsequent spalling of the concrete cover, reducing the serviceability and life of the pool concrete.
- Curing is important for all concrete, and especially for the relatively cement-rich concrete we use for wet-mix shotcrete. Curing essentially provides additional water to hydrate the cement in the concrete, and produces stronger, less permeable concrete. Not curing concrete yields concrete that is weaker, more permeable, and ultimately less suitable for creating a watertight pool shell.
- You haven’t indicated the actual time concrete sat for “a while.” Industry standards are that concrete should be placed within 90 minutes of the introduction of water to the mixture unless special precautions are taken. Water is usually added at the ready mix plant. If concrete sits too long it can start to lose workability. At the point of losing workability, some contractors will add additional water on site over and above the concrete mixture design requirements, but this “retempering” produces concrete that is weaker and more permeable than the original design mixture.
Based on your input, you have many good reasons to ask the contractor to provide full remediation of these quality issues.
PoolQ We have a large pond (12,000 ft2 [1115 m2]) 12 ft (4 m) deep with 2-to-1 sloped sides. It currently has an old PVC liner that is ripped and cannot be repaired. We have no shotcrete experience and wonder if shotcrete would be a better option than installing a new PVC liner?
Shotcrete is used extensively for zooscapes, water parks, museum exhibits, swimming pools, and spas. A shotcrete water feature, although more expensive than PVC liner, would provide a long-term, more aesthetically pleasing alternative to a new PVC pond liner. Shotcrete is very versatile and can be shaped to replicate natural rock ledges or boulders. A properly designed and built water feature would provide a low-maintenance, durable solution.
PoolQ We have a pool designed with the cast-in-place concrete construction method in mind. The project has been awarded to a dry-mix gunite contractor. To accommodate the contractor’s placement method, we have been working with him on the details. They are planning on casting the floor and shooting the walls. There are two main areas of concern/questions that we have. First is in regard to the air entrainment and the admixtures that are appropriate for gunite. They have not used air-entrainment admixtures prior to this project. What is the effect to durability without using air? What are the workability effects of adding air entrainment? Which product is recommended? Second, we have specified a hydrophilic waterstop between the cast-in-place floor and the wall. With the walls using a gunite application, what is the best method for preventing water infiltration in the construction joint? Does it hurt the integrity of the joint by installing a hydrophilic waterstop? If the water stop is omitted, what does the surface roughness need to be to provide a monolithic-type connection?
Air entrainment will generally slightly reduce the compressive strength of concrete, but significantly increase the resistance to freezing-and-thawing exposure. Dry-mix shotcrete (gunite) is generally a very paste-rich mixture. With modern cements, the normal 28-day compressive strengths easily exceed commonly specified compressive strengths. ASA recommends a minimum of 4000 psi (28 MPa) for shotcrete, and 4000 psi to 5000 psi (28 to 34 MPa) strengths are routinely specified.
- Air entrainment increases the workability. The small air bubbles act as a form of lubricant to ease internal friction between the concrete mixture components.
- You should contact one of our material supplier members to see what they offer. You can use our Buyers Guide at shotcrete.org/products-services-information/buyers-guide/, and limit your search to “Admixture Sales” with the “Air-Entraining” subcategory.
- Quality shotcrete shot against a properly prepared concrete substrate should produce a watertight interface. The hydrophilic waterstop at the joint could be considered a secondary method of making the joint watertight. Though not necessary, it is kind of a “belt and suspenders” approach with a relatively low cost to place.
- In shotcrete construction, surface preparation between layers to provide full bond is important. ACI 506.2-13, “Specification for Shotcrete,” specifically addresses this in the requirements of Sections 3.4.2.1 and 3.4.2.2 that state:
“3.4.2.1 When applying more than one layer of shotcrete, use a cutting rod, brush with a stiff bristle, or other suitable equipment to remove all loose material, overspray, laitance, or other material that may compromise the bond of the subsequent layer of shotcrete. Conduct removal immediately after shotcrete reaches initial set.
“3.4.2.2 Allow shotcrete to stiffen sufficiently before applying subsequent layers. If shotcrete has hardened, clean the surface of all loose material, laitance, overspray, or other material that may compromise the bond of subsequent layers. Bring the surface to a saturated surface-dry condition at the time of application of the next layer of shotcrete.”For more details on bond between shotcrete layers, you may want to refer to an article in the Spring 2014 issue of Shotcrete magazine, “Shotcrete Placed in Multiple Layers does NOT Create Cold Joints.” A PDF of the article can be found at shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf.
PoolStructuralQ We have a two-story shotcrete wall enclosing an indoor community pool. We are specifying a board-form finish for the interior and the exterior will have a parge finish coat. Are there any issues with the consistent moisture from the pool that should be addressed in the concrete mixture or topical sealant? How should we deal with the exterior versus interior finishes in regards to water intrusion protection and allowing the green concrete to “dry out” over time?
Shotcrete is a method of placing concrete and the characteristics of shotcrete are those of cast concrete. Although the enclosed swimming pool will increase the interior humidity, the high humidity should have no detrimental effects on the exposed shotcrete, and may even be beneficial in reducing long-term drying shrinkage of the wall.
Both cast-in-place and shotcreted concrete are commonly used for construction of water tanks with constant exposure to water under significant hydraulic pressure. Using good construction techniques with good-quality concrete to build the tank’s walls produces walls with no moisture evident on the exterior face of the tanks. Simply having a high-humidity atmosphere is a much less severe exposure and should not result in interior air moisture being transmitted into and through the shotcrete wall. Any coatings considered for aesthetics should follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for drying time of concrete before application. If there is a concern about the permeability of the shotcrete wall, a premium shotcrete mixture including silica fume might prevent some issues on this application.PoolQ We have an approximately 9500 ft2 (882.6 m2) pool that was built and finished in midsummer. Four weeks later, the pool has developed “spider web” cracking in the bottom. We need to have a compressive strength test done. Our crew is on site now and is going to pull a 4 in. (101.6 mm) core sample for testing. I need to know what procedure to follow and where to send the sample for testing.
Consult with a local engineering firm that is qualified to develop a coring plan, obtain cores, and perform testing in accordance with ASTM C42/C42M or ASTM C1604/C1604M. Please refer to ASTM C42/C42M for further guidance.
PoolQ We just shot a wet-mix swimming pool for a customer. The shallow end depth starts at 39 in. (991 mm) to the top of the beam and over 10 ft (3 m) linear slopes down to 54 in. (1372 mm). From there we maintain our 1 to 3 ft (0.3 to 0.9 m) slope down to 8 ft (2 m) for the diving end of the pool. The customer would like to raise the entire shallow end pool floor up to the 39 in. (991 mm) depth. We prefer to use wet-mix shotcrete. The overlay would be tapered from the 39 in. (991 mm) start to 15 in. (381 mm) thick at the 54 in. (1372 mm) depth. What would you recommend for this overlay to bond and not “pop loose” or cause crack transfer to pool plaster?
The proposed overlay will be similar to any repair where shotcrete is placed over existing concrete. Proper surface preparation is essential for allowing good bond. Guidance on surface preparation can be found in ACI 506R-05, “Guide to Shotcrete”. It also appears you are suggesting tapering the thickness from 15 to 0 in. (381 to 0 mm). Feathering thickness down to 0 in. (0 mm) is not encouraged, and a minimum thickness should be established. Because the overlay section will be quite thick and experience differential shrinkage from the previously shot material, the overlay will require additional reinforcement to accommodate temperature and shrinkage stresses. You should consult with an engineer experienced in shotcrete design to establish the proper amount of reinforcement. The required reinforcement and cover over the reinforcement will control your minimum overlay thickness.
PoolQ We recently contracted with a shotcrete company to install a shotcrete structure for a swimming pool. After the pool was completed and filled with water, rust stains began emerging through the plaster surface. When we broke out a section of the pool structure, we found that there was little to no coverage of shotcrete over the steel reinforcement. The shotcrete company’s excuse is that they shot the pool to maintain the desired finished depths and widths and there was little to no coverage because the steel was set too high (even if that were the case, they never alerted anyone during the installation). This sounds like an excuse to me. Shouldn’t the shotcrete company we hired make sure that the concrete coverage met or exceeded what the structural engineer called for? Is there any credibility to their explanation of why they didn’t cover the reinforcing bar enough? What is the standard practice for shotcrete installation?
In short, the shotcrete contractor is responsible for maintaining proper cover over the reinforcing steel. The reinforcing bar installer should set the steel in the proper location for achieving the required cover corresponding to the final desired shape. If the shotcrete contractor finds that he cannot maintain proper cover with the reinforcing as placed, however, he needs to communicate to the designer/owner/general contractor that the reinforcing needs to be fixed before he shoots the section in place. There is no excuse for placing shotcrete with less than the specified cover, as shooting it with reduced cover will obviously create a section that has much less durability than intended by the designer.