In general, we would recommend a minimum of 2 in. (50 mm) of shotcrete. Either fibers or wire mesh or both should be used in this application. Please note that there are different types of synthetic fibers (microsynthetic and macrosynthetic). Refer to ACI 506.1R for information on fiber-reinforced shotcrete.
If the surfaces are steep or vertical, wire mesh should be used, but provisions need to be included to stabilize the wire mesh. This would likely require attachment points through the waterproofing system.
Concrete, when applied using the shotcrete process, or cast-in-place, needs to cure for 7 days. Water is the best curing method (7 continuous days). Curing compound can be applied, but the membrane film that is formed will have to be removed by sand or water blasting (5000 psi [34.5 MPa] is recommended) before the plaster or tile can be set (it will create a bond breaker if not removed). There are curing compounds with a dissipating resin, which means after about 30 days in the sun, the material will break down. In either case, it is a good practice to pressure wash the concrete surface to remove the grit and dust out of the pours so that the plaster and tile will have a good bond. This is normal, everyday concrete curing practice that helps to prevent shrinkage cracks. The concrete being applied should have a water-cement ratio (w/c) of 0.35 to 0.45. Having the w/c at 0.40 at a 2 to 3 in. (50 to 75 mm) slump will keep the water demand low to help minimize the shrinkage. Wet-fogging freshly placed concrete before the curing process begins will also help prevent shrinkage cracks.
Consult with a local engineering firm that is qualified to develop a coring plan, obtain cores, and perform testing in accordance with ASTM C42/C42M or ASTM C1604/C1604M. Please refer to ASTM C42/C42M for further guidance.
Vertical formwork can generally be removed the day following the shotcrete installation. If the formwork is supporting a load like a soffit form, the form should not be removed until the shotcrete has attained full strength such that it can support the weight of the member.
Your question regarding the installation of the tile should be directed to a professional who installs tile.
It is generally good practice to let the shotcrete cure for the full 28 days before attempting to apply coatings or overlays. We would recommend you get a recommendation on the cure time from the manufacturer of the gauging product before doing the work.
a) Shotcrete can be finished in a wide variety of ways. It can be left with anywhere from a very rough to a very smooth finish and a huge variety of other finishes. We suggest you visit ASA’s Web site, click on the tab for Shotcrete magazine, and search the previous articles for finishes and swimming pools. You will find a lot of photos of great-looking walls. Not all shotcrete contractors are proficient in providing these attractive finishes. You need to discuss this with your current shotcrete contractor and/or interview other shotcrete contractors to make sure the chosen contractor can provide what you are looking for. We also suggest you look at work these contractors have previously completed. You can also locate contractors online at ASA’s Buyers Guide, www.Shotcrete.org\BuyersGuide.
b) If the pool house foundation is a footing trenched into the ground 4 ft (1.2 m) deep, dry-mix shotcrete would not be a good solution. If the foundation is 4 ft (1.2 m) above grade, then it could be done with shotcrete against a one-sided form. This would be considered structural shotcrete and not all shotcrete contractors are qualified to place shotcrete for structural walls. Again, we suggest you ensure the chosen contractor is qualified to do the work.
We are not able to advise you on the structural integrity of a remodel of a spa or any other structure and would suggest you consult with a local engineer who is familiar with pools and spas. Shotcrete is often used to overlay or patch structures and the success of such overlays and patches is highly dependent upon the quality of the surface preparation prior to the application of the shotcrete. With respect to referrals of independent professionals, we would suggest that you use the directory of Corporate Members in the ASA Buyers Guide.
Yes, if care is taken to prepare the receiving surface properly. The receiving shotcrete edge must be sound (no loose or unconsolidated material), clean (no traces of laitance or gloss), rough, and dampened to a saturated surface-dry condition. If these steps are followed, there should be no concern about the soundness of the joint.
As a general rule of thumb, brackish or salt water should not be used as shotcrete mixing water. High chloride ion contents can cause rapid setting of the shotcrete (which can make finishing difficult) and longer-term reinforcing steel corrosion-induced cracking, delamination, and spalling. Other components of brackish water can also be damaging to the fresh and hardened shotcrete. For a detailed statement on what constitutes acceptable contents of various dissolved chemicals for concrete/shotcrete mixing water, refer to the Portland Cement Association publication Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures, Chapter 4, “Mixing Water for Concrete.” One could also consult ASTM C1602/C1602M for limits on the composition of nonpotable water for use in the production of shotcrete.
Shotcrete is used extensively for zooscapes, water parks, museum exhibits, swimming pools, and spas. A shotcrete water feature, although more expensive than PVC liner, would provide a long-term, more aesthetically pleasing alternative to a new PVC pond liner. Shotcrete is very versatile and can be shaped to replicate natural rock ledges or boulders. A properly designed and built water feature would provide a low-maintenance, durable solution.
