What is the minimum spacing between reinforcing bar recommended in a shotcrete swimming pool deep-end wall. The engineer is calling out for 12 in. (300 mm) walls with a double mat of No. 5 bars at 4 in. (100 mm) on center each way. In my opinion, this does not give enough space to properly encase the reinforcing bar with shotcrete without creating voids and trapping uncontrollable rebound.

The engineer designs the wall based on the loads anticipated on it throughout its service life. The minimum spacing for noncontact lap splices as indicated in ACI 506.2, “Specification for Shotcrete,” is:

“Clearance of at least three times the diameter of the largest reinforcing bar; three times the maximum size aggregate; or 2 in., whichever is least”

In your case with No. 5 bars, the 2 in. (50 mm) minimum probably controls and would then provide a 2.6 in. (64 mm) center-to-center spacing. No. 5 bars at 4 in. spacing can be shot properly with proper materials and technique. An ACI-certified shotcrete nozzleman will have had education that explains how this configuration or even closer spacing can be shot properly. Experienced shotcrete contractors doing structural concrete walls do this type of work routinely with excellent results. If you are concerned about encasement of the reinforcing steel in the back curtain of steel you may consider erecting only the back curtain of steel, shooting the wall out to the location of the outer curtain of reinforcement, erecting the outer curtain, and then shooting out to the final surface. Experienced shotcrete contractors have shot in thick sections (36 in. [900 mm] thick or more) with heavy reinforcement (No. 11 at 4 in.) using this technique.

The company installing our pool ran short of wet mix by about 4 yd3 (3 m3). The pressure truck left, leaving one finisher behind. It was about an hour before the last of the material arrived and what had already been placed had pretty much set. He added about 20 gal. (76 L) of water so he could get it in place. The fully exposed areas, I feel, would be OK. However, the long tapered overlays concern me for strength; it seems like more of a patch. Since it was not shot in place to compress and integrate it, will it bond and strengthen properly?

Proper shotcrete placement of concrete depends on high-velocity impact of the concrete materials for full consolidation. Though not clear from your inquiry, it sounds like the additional concrete was just dumped in place without high-velocity impact. Thus, you simply have normal cast concrete that would require some type of external vibration to densify and properly consolidate the concrete. The bond of cast concrete would be inferior to the bond from shotcrete since you do not have the high-velocity impact driving the cement paste into the previously shot material. Also, adding 20 gal. of water at the site would substantially weaken the concrete from the original design strength of the concrete mixture. Further, feathering edging in a joint is not recommended since you end up with a very thin overlay at some point that may tend to spall or delaminate much more easily at the thinner section. A better approach when running short of concrete is to stop and prepare a joint for later shotcreting. For best bond, joints should be cut at a 45-degree angle, roughened, and then cleaned and wetted immediately before shooting.

Thus, answering your final question, in summary the bond will be reduced, and with the higher water content, the concrete will be weaker than properly shotcreted concrete.

We had a spa added to an existing pool. The shotcrete was too liquid and sloughed off to the bottom. The shotcrete contractor scooped the sloughed material from the bottom with his hands and put it back on the wall. There are fissures and holes in the wall. There was also reinforcing steel close to the surface of the wall. The cold joint at the existing pool wall wasn’t prepared. They added a shotcrete seat to the existing pool over the old Marcite with no removal or roughening up of the surface. They then refused to water cure it. There wasn’t enough reinforcing steel and formwork from the pool company, so the shotcrete contractor had to stop and add more steel from steel I had lying around. So, the shotcrete sat in the truck for quite a while before shooting. We are concerned about the quality of the pool.

You are correct in suspecting quality issues with your pool. These are the specific issues that lead to poor quality, that can affect the serviceability and durability of your pool.

  1. Shotcrete placement requires high velocity and impact for compaction of the concrete. Hand-applying “sloughed-off” concrete would not provide proper compaction needed for producing monolithic concrete sections. The resultant fissures and voids in your pool reflect the lack of proper velocity and compaction.
  2. Proper preparation of the substrate is essential for good bond and creating a concrete section that acts monolithically. The surface needs to have any materials that would interfere with the bond removed, be roughened, cleaned, and brought to a saturated surface-dry condition before shotcrete placement. This article from Shotcrete magazine gives more details on how and why surface preparation is important (shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf).
  3. Concrete cover over the reinforcing bar is critical for maintaining corrosion protection of the embedded steel, and thus providing long-term durability. Low cover will often result in premature corrosion and subsequent spalling of the concrete cover, reducing the serviceability and life of the pool concrete.
  4. Curing is important for all concrete, and especially for the relatively cement-rich concrete we use for wet-mix shotcrete. Curing essentially provides additional water to hydrate the cement in the concrete, and produces stronger, less permeable concrete. Not curing concrete yields concrete that is weaker, more permeable, and ultimately less suitable for creating a watertight pool shell.
  5. You haven’t indicated the actual time concrete sat for “a while.” Industry standards are that concrete should be placed within 90 minutes of the introduction of water to the mixture unless special precautions are taken. Water is usually added at the ready mix plant. If concrete sits too long it can start to lose workability. At the point of losing workability, some contractors will add additional water on site over and above the concrete mixture design requirements, but this “retempering” produces concrete that is weaker and more permeable than the original design mixture.

Based on your input, you have many good reasons to ask the contractor to provide full remediation of these quality issues.

We are in the swimming pool design and construction industry as a general contractor. We subcontracted a large percentage of the work to complete a project — namely, the shotcrete of the pool shell, and were very unhappy with the results. The walls are not plumb and areas are not shot to the full thickness. We didn’t check out the contractor’s current work and he is incapable of making any repairs. We have done corrective chipping and bush hammering to get the walls plumb and areas at the proper grade. However, many areas need to be filled to the proper thickness up to 2 in. (50 mm). Can this be done with either a dry or wet mix? Do you need to bush hammer a recessed area to accept a minimum amount of new material in lieu of a feather edge? Is a wet mix acceptable to fill these areas given that the aggregate in it is generally up to 0.375 in. (9.5 mm) or so? With the dry mix being primarily concrete sand and cement it would seem more practical.

As you discovered, experience of the shotcrete contractor is key to a successful project. It takes an experienced and knowledgeable shotcrete team (the project manager, supervisor, pump or gun operator, nozzlemen, and finishers) to get a quality job. Answering your specific questions:

  1. Can this be done with either a dry or wet mix? Yes, either wet or dry mix will produce good results. You must be sure to properly prepare the substrate including chipping/bush hammering back to sound concrete, fully cleaning the surface and then bringing the surface to a saturated surface-dry condition (SSD).
  2. Do you need to bush a recessed area to accept a minimum amount of new material in lieu of a feather edge? Feather edging will create a very thin layer that would have more potential to spall when exposed to shrinkage or seasonal thermal movements. We recommend creating a square shoulder at least 0.75 in. (19.0 mm) deep to create an acceptable thickness of the patching layer.
  3. Is a wet mix acceptable to fill these areas given that the aggregate in it is generally up to 0.375 in. or so? With the dry-mix being primarily concrete sand and cement it would seem more practical. Wet-mix with a coarse aggregate can be shot in thin layers, but with a 0.375 in. coarse aggregate may require more finishing due to impact depressions of the aggregate in the shot surface. A dry-mix material without coarse aggregate may be easier to fill in the thin layers. Dry mix is typically less productive in volume placed per hour than wet mix, but in this relatively small-volume repair application, either process should be fine.

The plaster color installed in my pool was the wrong color. The plaster has been chipped out. My concern is damage to the shotcrete shell in the process. There are deep holes and gauges and there was water seepage in a few areas behind the shotcrete. There is also evidence of honeycombed areas in the shotcrete, as well as some other shotcrete concerns since reading up on the shotcrete process. Please help, as I’m being told that they will just plaster over these concerns. However, the plastering information reads that plaster thickness should not exceed 7/8 in. (22 mm) thickness (but can be a little thicker around plumbing fixtures).

Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete. When the pool shotcrete contractor uses quality materials, properly sized and maintained equipment, and experienced crew members, the shotcreted pool shell should be watertight. Proper shotcrete application would also not exhibit voids, honeycomb, or major seepage through the pool shell. Before replastering, the pool shell should be evaluated and all defects (voids, cracks, porous sections, deep holes, and so on) repaired using industry-standard methods and materials. You may consider retaining a professional engineer or experienced pool consultant to evaluate the pool shell and make specific recommendations on the appropriate repair for your specific issues. You can use our Buyers Guide (shotcrete.org/products-services-information/buyers-guide/) to locate consultants in your area. You also may want to review our pool-specific Position Statements on our website at shotcrete.org/products-services-information/resources/. The “Watertight Shotcrete for Swimming Pools” would be particularly informative for you to assist in discussions with your pool contractor.

Is there a way for me to find out what the standard or appropriate repair for exposed reinforcing bar in a shotcrete swimming pool shell?

Because shotcrete is a placement method for concrete, standard concrete repair techniques are applicable. If the repair is being done by shotcreting new concrete on the existing concrete, the repair should include these steps:

  1. Chip the poor or weak concrete back to sound concrete.
  2. If reinforcing bars are exposed, they should be cleaned of any rust.
  3. If more than half of the perimeter of a reinforcing bar is exposed, the concrete should be chipped back to provide at least a 0.75 in. (19 mm) space behind the bar to allow shotcrete to flow around the back of the bar.
  4. Before shooting any additional shotcrete, the surface should be cleaned and then wetted to a saturated surface-dry condition (SSD).
  5. SSD means the substrate is damp, but there is no flowing water. It should feel damp to the touch, but no water is picked up on your hand when placing it against the surface.
  6. Do not use bonding agents, as they can interfere and reduce the bond of the new shotcrete to the old shotcrete surface.
  7. When the new shotcrete is in place, the contractor should initiate water curing as soon as possible. In warm, dry, or windy weather, fogging of the fresh surface immediately after finishing would be helpful.
  8. Water curing (where the concrete is kept continuously moist) should be supplied for at least 7 days.

Can you please provide me a technical recommendation on whether or not expansion joints should be used in a large shotcrete pool that is approximately 230 ft x 135 ft (70 m x 41 m)? In my design I am calling for two expansion joints which would break the pool into three approximately 76 ft-8 in. (23 m) sections. The contractor is telling me that he typically does not use expansion joints in the pool and that they are unnecessary. I do not typically work with shotcrete and have limited pool design but given the size of the structure I would think it would be best to include expansion joints. Can you please recommend whether or not the expansion joints should be used? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete. All normal concrete experiences drying shrinkage that creates a volume change in the hardened concrete. Pools will also experience volume change in the concrete due to thermal changes, especially summer to winter seasonal swings. Contraction and expansion joints are common in all kinds of concrete liquid-containing structures especially with walls of this length. Though we can’t provide a firm design recommendation you should consider these factors:

  • What are the weather conditions when the pool is anticipated to be built? If during hot summer months, could there be enough seasonal temperature swing to require expansion joints?
  • If expansion joints wouldn’t be needed would contraction joints be needed to handle anticipated temperature swings, and drying shrinkage?
  • Will the pool be empty for extended times (this could lead to more shrinkage or direct exposure to solar gain or cold conditions?
  • Is the pool to be kept full or empty during the winter months? (if the pool is in a geographic region where extending freezing conditions are prevalent)

Overall, the design for a shotcrete pool should be the same as one for a cast concrete pool.

I am a homeowner who is having a pool built in my backyard. The company used shotcrete last Thursday, but didn’t tell us we needed to keep it wet for the next few days. We found out on the following Monday that we should have been keeping the shotcrete wet. The 4 days that passed before we began wetting the shotcrete were very windy and hot (low 80s). The pool company is now telling us that it’s probably not a big deal that the shotcrete wasn’t kept wet for 4 days. My question is this: How has the shotcrete been compromised by not keeping it wet for 4 days? What can I expect to happen to the shotcrete (cracks?) What would you recommend as far as a fix??

ASA recommends a minimum of 7 days curing to help control shrinkage issues in young concrete sections. Lack of curing, and exposure to windy, hot or dry conditions will certainly increase the potential for shrinkage and cracking of the concrete. Lack of curing will prevent the concrete from achieving its maximum potential strength. However, shotcrete generally exceeds the minimum 4000 psi (28 MPa) 28-day compressive strength ASA recommends, and required strength depends on the pool design. If you want to confirm the compressive strength of your in-place concrete, cores taken from the pool should be tested for compressive strength by a qualified testing lab. ASTM C1604 Standard Test Method for Obtaining and Testing Drilled Cores of Shotcrete gives guidance on taking cores from existing structures. A minimum 3” diameter core is recommended. Before coring it is recommended to use ground penetrating radar (GPR) or similar equipment to identify the location of reinforcing in the pool section, and then take cores to avoid cutting through the reinforcing wherever possible. The core holes would then need to be filled with a high strength, non-shrink cementitious grout. Once you learn the actual strength, you would need to check with the pool design engineer to verify the strength is adequate for the design. If the strengths are not adequate, you should consult with the pool designer or a licensed professional engineer experienced in pool design for potential solutions.

I modified an existing pool and had a new 20 ft (6 m) wall built that was subsequently back filled. The rebar was epoxied and tied into existing pool wall/floor. The wall is 4.5 ft to 6 ft (1.3 to 1.8 m) tall. 60 days later we have two vertical hairline cracks that run top to bottom. I watered the wall properly and there are no cracks in the other sections we shot (spa, etc). We backfilled 12 days after the wall was shot with hand equipment only. The sample test taken when shooting came back at 6500 psi (4.1 MPa). The original pool bottom is below the wall and has no issues. The wall appears to be 12 to 14 in. (300 to 350 mm) thick from top to bottom. My question is if the wall was shot too thick would the lack of additional rebar cause the wall to fail? And is the necessary course of action to demo the entire wall and reinforce the rebar, then shotcrete again?

There are many variables that can cause cracking. Vertical cracking is often the result of drying shrinkage of the concrete. You said you cured (watered) the wall properly, but don’t give any specifics. ASA recommends a minimum of 7 days of curing, with a wet cure preferred over a spray-applied membrane. You should have a licensed engineer evaluate the structural sections, and determine if there were any problems with the amount or placement of reinforcing in your wall section.

We have a pool designed with the cast-in-place concrete construction method in mind. The project has been awarded to a dry-mix gunite contractor. To accommodate the contractor’s placement method, we have been working with him on the details. They are planning on casting the floor and shooting the walls. There are two main areas of concern/questions that we have. First is in regard to the air entrainment and the admixtures that are appropriate for gunite. They have not used air-entrainment admixtures prior to this project. What is the effect to durability without using air? What are the workability effects of adding air entrainment? Which product is recommended? Second, we have specified a hydrophilic waterstop between the cast-in-place floor and the wall. With the walls using a gunite application, what is the best method for preventing water infiltration in the construction joint? Does it hurt the integrity of the joint by installing a hydrophilic waterstop? If the water stop is omitted, what does the surface roughness need to be to provide a monolithic-type connection?

Air entrainment will generally slightly reduce the compressive strength of concrete, but significantly increase the resistance to freezing-and-thawing exposure. Dry-mix shotcrete (gunite) is generally a very paste-rich mixture. With modern cements, the normal 28-day compressive strengths easily exceed commonly specified compressive strengths. ASA recommends a minimum of 4000 psi (28 MPa) for shotcrete, and 4000 psi to 5000 psi (28 to 34 MPa) strengths are routinely specified.

  1. Air entrainment increases the workability. The small air bubbles act as a form of lubricant to ease internal friction between the concrete mixture components.
  2. You should contact one of our material supplier members to see what they offer. You can use our Buyers Guide at shotcrete.org/products-services-information/buyers-guide/, and limit your search to “Admixture Sales” with the “Air-Entraining” subcategory.
  3. Quality shotcrete shot against a properly prepared concrete substrate should produce a watertight interface. The hydrophilic waterstop at the joint could be considered a secondary method of making the joint watertight. Though not necessary, it is kind of a “belt and suspenders” approach with a relatively low cost to place.
  4. In shotcrete construction, surface preparation between layers to provide full bond is important. ACI 506.2-13, “Specification for Shotcrete,” specifically addresses this in the requirements of Sections 3.4.2.1 and 3.4.2.2 that state:

“3.4.2.1 When applying more than one layer of shotcrete, use a cutting rod, brush with a stiff bristle, or other suitable equipment to remove all loose material, overspray, laitance, or other material that may compromise the bond of the subsequent layer of shotcrete. Conduct removal immediately after shotcrete reaches initial set.
“3.4.2.2 Allow shotcrete to stiffen sufficiently before applying subsequent layers. If shotcrete has hardened, clean the surface of all loose material, laitance, overspray, or other material that may compromise the bond of subsequent layers. Bring the surface to a saturated surface-dry condition at the time of application of the next layer of shotcrete.”

For more details on bond between shotcrete layers, you may want to refer to an article in the Spring 2014 issue of Shotcrete magazine, “Shotcrete Placed in Multiple Layers does NOT Create Cold Joints.” A PDF of the article can be found at shotcrete.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/2014Spr_TechnicalTip.pdf.