I recently hired a pool contractor to build a residential pool. The contractor has been in business for more than 30 years and has a great reputation. The progress so far is that the pool has been installed using shotcrete. The shotcrete has been curing for the last 9 days. Within the last 9 days, it has rained heavily twice. On the second rainy day, immediately after the rain finished, I walked outside to see the amount of water that had collected inside the pool. I noticed that the water was muddy looking. Upon closer inspection, as the rest of the pool was dry, except for the deep end, there were two trails of water coming from the shallow end and running into the pool of water in the deep end. After getting down into the pool, I noticed that these trails of water were from water bubbling up through the shotcrete floor on the slope closer to the shallow end. The bubbling was like a small stream of water coming up out of the shotcrete in two places. I suppose it is from the hydrostatic pressure from the groundwater under the concrete? My question is should this be concerning? The plaster has not been installed. How should these holes be filled? The holes certainly do not look like they were intentional, as you can’t really even see them, except for the water coming out of them. Is there a problem with the shotcrete installation? Does this mean that my pool will leak when it is filled with water? I would image that if water can come up through the shotcrete, the water can also go down through the shotcrete, resulting in erosion of the soil under the pool? Before the shotcrete was installed, there was no groundwater present and the dirt was dry. (Referenced images can be found here)

It is difficult to make an assessment of a situation like this with a few photos and the description given. Based on your statement that the contractor has an excellent 30-year reputation, we’d suggest you discuss these concerns with the contractor. If his response does not give you a full explanation, we suggest you engage an independent professional familiar with shotcrete installations and swimming pools to give you an opinion. You can use ASA’s Buyers Guide at shotcrete.org to find a consultant.
There certainly is reason to question the quality of the installation based on the description. However, it is not unusual for the pool shell contractor to leave a temporary opening in the shell to relive potential groundwater pressure and prevent floating of the empty pool shell. These holes are, or should be done, in a professional manner to allow complete watertight sealing when filled. In some cases, the openings may include a pressure relief valve.

I am building a perimeter overflow pool and need to know the best way to finish the trough. I have one shotcrete company that wants to hand-finish the 6 in. (152 mm) wide trough; another wants to shoot up to foam. Can you tell me which is best and why?

This is a classic performance-versus-prescription situation. The owner or customer should specify the desired end product and the contractor should choose the means and methods. Although they may both provide a great product, what works for one contractor or what he/she is comfortable doing may be completely different than another contractor.

We are building a pool using shotcrete, and our pool design team has been asked to use the Aquron pool shell protector. The info from Aquron says for best results, spray the CPSP the morning after the shotcrete has been applied. However, our shotcrete company told us to keep the shell damp for a minimum of 7 days. Could you weigh in on this?

The ICC (International Code Council) Building Code requires a 7-day wet cure, which is good practice for concrete or shotcrete. The Aquron Technical Data Sheet mentions prewetting the surface prior to application, but we do not see the direction on the timing. You may want to question the product representative regarding how to accomplish the ICC curing requirements and also get the best results from their product.

We are in the process of renovating a commercial pool with a gutter system. The plaster surface has been removed along with some of the concrete. The wall of the gutter on the water side is tiled and is crumbling away. Our plan is to shotcrete the walls and gutter. When we shoot the walls back we will be adding 1 to 2 in. (25 to 51 mm) of shotcrete at a maximum. Is this too thin for shotcrete? Also, the gutter edge will be 2 in. (51 mm) thick and 4 in. (102 mm) in height without any reinforcing bar—will this have much strength?

Shotcrete can be placed as thin as 1 to 2 in. (25 to 51 mm), but will do little more than to provide a new surface to apply the plaster. To do a proper job you need to remove all loose and deteriorated existing shotcrete and should likely add in a layer of reinforcement or use structural fibers (either steel or synthetic) in the shotcrete mixture. The surface preparation should be done to the standards outlined by the International Concrete Repair Institute (ICRI).

We will be shotcreting a pool and the designer has put an expansion joint in the pool going from the top of one wall through the floor to the top of the other wall. It also shows a 9 in. (229 mm) polyvinyl chloride (PVC) waterstop in this joint. I have seen this used with cast-in-place concrete, but not with shotcrete. I was wondering if there are any guidelines on shooting around a PVC waterstop.

This detail is normally only used on very large competition pools on the order of 164 ft (50 m) in length. It takes a lot of skill, technique, and care to properly encapsulate the waterstop and it should only be attempted by a shotcrete contractor with experience in this application. The successful encapsulation of the waterstop is more challenging with the dry-mix process than when using wet-mix shotcrete. The techniques for the proper encapsulation are generally developed by the individual shotcrete contractor and there is no specific “guideline” available for encasing waterstops.

We are designing a 41 x 60 ft (12 x 18 m), 2.5 to 4.5 ft (0.8 to 1.4 m) deep swimming pool. The walls and floor are 8 in. (203 mm) thick with No. 4 (No. 13) bars. We are specifying shotcrete to build the pool. What should be the minimum spacing for the expansion joint?

You need to address this question to a professional engineer who is knowledgeable in the characteristics of shotcrete and concrete. Shotcrete is a method of placing concrete and the same parameters used in concrete design apply to shotcrete placements. Many pools of this size are designed and built without expansion joints, but it is beyond the scope of our association to provide further guidance.

I am doing an owner/builder pool. The shotcrete company I hired left an approximately 4 x 4 in. (102 x 102 mm) hole in the deep end of the pool on the side wall. What is the proper way to patch this hole prior to plastering? (The shotcrete was applied a month ago.)

The normal repair is to pressure wash with at least 3000 psi (21 MPa) of water pressure to remove any dirt and laitance on the surface of the concrete. Given the rather small size of the hole, it can be hand-patched with a nonshrink hydraulic cement with at least 4000 psi (28 MPa) 28-day compressive strength to plug the hole. After the patch is completed, roughen the surface that will receive the plaster.

I am looking for some technical assistance concerning temperature guidelines for shooting gunite pools. Is there a suggested range of air temperature and humidity that is recommended? Thanks for your help!

Shotcrete is a method of placing concrete. The basic guidelines for placing concrete or shotcrete can be found in documents ACI 305R-10, “Guide to Hot Weather Concreting,” and ACI 306R-10, “Guide to Cold Weather Concreting.” There are some basic “rules of thumb,” such as 40°F (4°C) and rising for starting concrete/shotcrete operations and 40°F (4°C) and falling for stopping concrete/shotcrete operations. With proper planning and procedures, concrete or shotcrete can be placed at below-freezing temperatures and at very hot temperatures, but only with proper planning, procedures, and likely at some cost.

We are in the process of building a shotcrete pool and are required to wet-test the pool before set, waterproofing, and tile. What is the expected water-loss percentage? We are required to achieve 1%.

We are not aware of a specific standard for pools. However, ACI 350.1-10, “Specification for Tightness Testing of Environmental Engineering Concrete Containment Structures,” specifies a volume loss of 0.05% of volume per day conducted over a 72-hour test period for “hydrostatic tightness testing of open liquid containment structures. Specifics of conducting the test can be found in the ACI 350.1-10 document.
It should be noted that the pool should be filled and allowed to saturate for 3 days before beginning the measurements.