Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete. As the lazy river is a long concrete trough that is intended to be functionally watertight, the best guidance is ACI, 350-06 Code Requirements for Environmental Engineering Concrete Structures. As the predominate stresses in the horizontal direction result from shrinkage and temperature, Section 7.12.2.1 provides guidance on joint spacing based on the provided reinforcement ratio in the concrete section. The closer the movement joints, the less reinforcement required. Chapter 5 of ACI 350.4R-04, Design Considerations for Environmental Engineering Concrete Structures, has guidance on design of joints for water containing structures to help maintain water tightness.
Purlear Creek
In North Carolina, we are quite fond of our local swimming holes. Ask any Tar Heel, and they will assuredly regale you with tales of their childhood spent swinging wildly from ropes and jumping from or sliding down boulders. The swimming hole always held magic for us when we were small, with water that glowed with microscopic fool’s gold, and tiny fish that would nibble at our feet. It was a place where we could run, jump, and splash, all while nature was busily oiling the wheels of our young imaginations. It’s a scene that one North Carolinian couple wished to recreate for their grandchildren, right in their backyard.
The Making of Swamp Thing
It was early November and I was on top of a mountain, at the halfway point of a project that would take 18 months to complete. This is the moment I got a call to help build a swamp, indoors, for a movie set on the coast. We get all sorts of odd requests, but this was a different kind of strange. Without further ado, I said, “Sure, sounds great, when do you need it?” The studio replied, “By Thanksgiving,” as filming was starting the following week. This sort of answer required a little more digging
I am not sure if this is the right place to go… 15 months ago I contracted with a company to remove my pavers, pour a concrete pad, and install spraycrete. It was beautiful! The contractor even has photos on his website. Now, I have hairline cracks all over the place and there are more weekly. My contractor is definitely giving me the runaround regarding this. I explained that I would not have paid more than $16,000 if my pool deck would be cracked a year later. Hurricane Irma took out my pool cage and the insurance money was not enough to replace it, so I used the money for my pool deck. Can someone please tell me what to do? Should these hairline cracks be everywhere? What is the lifespan of the material? Help!
Spray-crete is NOT shotcrete. Shotcrete is high-velocity placement of concrete in thicker structural sections. It appears Spray-crete is a low-velocity sprayed mortar product generally applied in a very thin layer to provide texture to an existing concrete substrate. Since you mentioned the underlaying concrete pad was cast and then the Spray-crete added the cracking could well be originating in the underlaying concrete. Concrete cracks for a variety of reasons, such as drying shrinkage, thermal volume change (summer/winter cycles), inadequate curing, insufficient reinforcing steel, or settlement of the subgrade. You should locate a local professional engineer experienced in concrete slab evaluation who can evaluate your site, materials used, application techniques, and potential causes of the cracking. You may find the Florida Engineering Society and ACEC-FL has a list of firms who offer evaluation services.
I’m hoping you’d be willing to answer a couple of questions I have about gunite. I am having a swimming pool installed at my house in Florida. I was away when the gunite was shot a few weeks ago and didn’t know at the time that the gunite should be sprayed with water for a few times a day for about a week according to what I have read online. The pool company owner knew I would be away and never mentioned the need for the gunite to be periodically moistened. The owner also made no provision for any of his employees to hose it down or install a sprinkler. When I learned after the fact of the watering requirement and asked him about it, he said it was unnecessary because the gunite was shot at 4000 psi (28 MPa) and not the “industry standard” of 3000 psi (21 MPa). Then he added that with the almost daily rain in Florida at this time of year, all was okay. I’m concerned about the gunite’s integrity—its permeability and the possibility of shrinkage and cracking. Could you tell me if I have a reason to be concerned, and if so, what do you suggest I should do about it?
Gunite is the original tradename for what we now call dry-mix shotcrete. Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete, so recommendations for curing and protection follow general ACI guidelines for exposed concrete. ASA recommends a minimum of 7 days of continuous (not just a few times a day) wet curing to help control shrinkage issues, increase strength, and reduce permeability in young concrete sections. Lack of curing and exposure to windy, hot, or dry conditions will certainly increase the potential for shrinkage and cracking of the concrete. Lack of curing will prevent the concrete from achieving its maximum potential strength.
Shotcrete placement with quality materials and proper application techniques generally exceeds the minimum 4000 psi 28-day compressive strength ASA recommends. The statement that 3000 psi is the “industry standard” is not true, as the ACI 350 Code for concrete liquid-containing requires a minimum 28-day compressive strength of 4000 psi for concrete intended to have low permeability when exposed to water. The required strength depends on the pool design. If you want to confirm the compressive strength of your in-place concrete, cores taken from the pool should be tested for compressive strength by a qualified testing lab. ASTM C1604/C1604M provides guidance on taking cores from existing structures. A minimum 3 in. (76 mm) diameter core is recommended. Before coring, it is recommended to use ground-penetrating radar (GPR) or similar equipment to identify the location of reinforcement in the pool section, and then take cores to avoid cutting through the reinforcement wherever possible. The core holes would then need to be filled with a high-strength, non-shrink cementitious grout. Once you learn the actual strength, you would need to check with the pool design engineer to verify the strength is adequate for the design. If the strengths are not adequate, you should consult with the pool designer or a licensed professional engineer experienced in pool design for potential solutions.
Regarding cracking, the lack of curing will increase the concrete’s shrinkage and correspondingly the potential for cracking. You should verify that there are no significant cracks in the pool shell before the plaster or other interior coating is applied. If there are cracks, the pool contractor should repair those before proceeding with the plaster or coating. Although proper curing would certainly decrease the concrete’s permeability, generally good-quality shotcrete with proper placement and a strength of 4000 psi will be functionally watertight and not allow any significant amount of water to flow through the uncracked concrete thickness. You will find more detailed information on pool compressive strengths and watertightness of pool shells in our ASA Position Statements.
I place shotcrete and I use the wet-mix method. I have been asked by a contractor to repair a pool that was shot with the dry-mix method. He is having trouble convincing his client that with the proper preparation we can shoot the repair with the wet method. Am I missing anything?
Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete. Both wet-mix and dry-mix produce quality in-place concrete when using quality materials and proper equipment and placement techniques. There are no compatibility problems with shooting wet-mix over dry-mix. Basically, it is just shooting shotcrete on top of already placed concrete. For proper bond, the surface of the existing dry-mix must be roughened, cleaned, and brought to a saturated surface-dry moisture condition before shooting the wet-mix lining.
I am working with a private club in Connecticut and we are are trying to determine what the life expectancy is of a concrete commercial pool shell. There is no evidence of failure or cracking and the pool surface is painted, not plaster. We think it is reinforced shotcrete. Are there any tests or rules we should take into consideration?
Shotcrete is a placement method for concrete. Thus, evaluating your pool shell life expectancy will be the same as any concrete structure exposed to water. You may find the technical document ACI 201.1R-08, “Guide for Conducting a Visual Inspection of Concrete in Service,” helpful in evaluating your pool shell. Generally, shotcreted concrete that uses quality materials, proper equipment, and placement techniques will serve for at least 50 to 60 years. ACI 350-06, “Code Requirements for Environmental Engineering Concrete Structures,” states: “When all relevant loading conditions are considered, the design should provide adequate safety and serviceability, with a life expectancy of 50 to 60 years for the structural concrete.” This ACI 350 Code is for liquid-containing concrete structures such as tanks for water and wastewater treatment but the original pool design may or may not meet the Code requirements.
We’re building a pool 25 x 45 ft (7.6 x 14 m) and had a massive cave-in on our deep end. The builder wants to build temporary walls to shoot the shotcrete against, then remove the plywood walls and backfill with gravel. I’m wondering if this will work and if they will be able to remove the plywood without damaging the shotcrete walls. I know with typical forms you would prep the form with oil so the concrete doesn’t stick. Would that be necessary for shotcrete, too? Also, is there a recommended wait time for curing before we backfill?
Shooting shotcrete against a one-sided form (what you called a temporary wall) is a common way to build a shotcrete wall. Once the shotcrete sets and builds strength, the plywood form can easily be stripped off the back of the wall. Form release agents (not oil) can be applied to the plywood to make the stripping easier. Once the forms are removed and the concrete has gained adequate strength, the walls can be backfilled with compacted soil or gravel, depending on the drainage needs.
We recommend 7 days of curing. Continuous water curing is best, but if impractical, applying a curing compound on the exposed surface at twice the manufacturer’s recommended rate for a good seal is acceptable. If they remove the forms before 7 days, they should also water cure or apply curing compound to that newly exposed surface. The shotcrete needs to build up enough strength to resist the external force of the backfill, so check with the pool designer to see what they need for the required strength of the concrete before backfilling. With most good-quality shotcrete materials and placement techniques, you can expect about 4000 psi (28 MPa) compressive strength in 7 days.
What is the minimum spacing between reinforcing bar recommended in a shotcrete swimming pool deep-end wall. The engineer is calling out for 12 in. (300 mm) walls with a double mat of No. 5 bars at 4 in. (100 mm) on center each way. In my opinion, this does not give enough space to properly encase the reinforcing bar with shotcrete without creating voids and trapping uncontrollable rebound.
The engineer designs the wall based on the loads anticipated on it throughout its service life. The minimum spacing for noncontact lap splices as indicated in ACI 506.2, “Specification for Shotcrete,” is:
“Clearance of at least three times the diameter of the largest reinforcing bar; three times the maximum size aggregate; or 2 in., whichever is least”
In your case with No. 5 bars, the 2 in. (50 mm) minimum probably controls and would then provide a 2.6 in. (64 mm) center-to-center spacing. No. 5 bars at 4 in. spacing can be shot properly with proper materials and technique. An ACI-certified shotcrete nozzleman will have had education that explains how this configuration or even closer spacing can be shot properly. Experienced shotcrete contractors doing structural concrete walls do this type of work routinely with excellent results. If you are concerned about encasement of the reinforcing steel in the back curtain of steel you may consider erecting only the back curtain of steel, shooting the wall out to the location of the outer curtain of reinforcement, erecting the outer curtain, and then shooting out to the final surface. Experienced shotcrete contractors have shot in thick sections (36 in. [900 mm] thick or more) with heavy reinforcement (No. 11 at 4 in.) using this technique.
The company installing our pool ran short of wet mix by about 4 yd3 (3 m3). The pressure truck left, leaving one finisher behind. It was about an hour before the last of the material arrived and what had already been placed had pretty much set. He added about 20 gal. (76 L) of water so he could get it in place. The fully exposed areas, I feel, would be OK. However, the long tapered overlays concern me for strength; it seems like more of a patch. Since it was not shot in place to compress and integrate it, will it bond and strengthen properly?
Proper shotcrete placement of concrete depends on high-velocity impact of the concrete materials for full consolidation. Though not clear from your inquiry, it sounds like the additional concrete was just dumped in place without high-velocity impact. Thus, you simply have normal cast concrete that would require some type of external vibration to densify and properly consolidate the concrete. The bond of cast concrete would be inferior to the bond from shotcrete since you do not have the high-velocity impact driving the cement paste into the previously shot material. Also, adding 20 gal. of water at the site would substantially weaken the concrete from the original design strength of the concrete mixture. Further, feathering edging in a joint is not recommended since you end up with a very thin overlay at some point that may tend to spall or delaminate much more easily at the thinner section. A better approach when running short of concrete is to stop and prepare a joint for later shotcreting. For best bond, joints should be cut at a 45-degree angle, roughened, and then cleaned and wetted immediately before shooting.
Thus, answering your final question, in summary the bond will be reduced, and with the higher water content, the concrete will be weaker than properly shotcreted concrete.