StructuralQ I would like advice about spraying shotcrete on the exterior walls of a house I am building. In constructing the exterior walls of the house, I plan to shoot approximately 0.75 in. (19 mm) on Day 1 and shoot 1.25 in. (31 mm) on Day 2 for 2 in. (50 mm) thick walls. I have hung 14-gauge wire mesh spaced at 1 in. (25 mm) over all the walls and am planning to use a 3000 psi (20.7 MPa) mixture. I am greatly concerned about cracking. Is my planned technique a good way to mitigate cracking or are there better approaches? Should I consider upping the strength of the concrete?
In structural applications, most of the impact force from nozzling shotcrete is directed toward compacting the shotcrete in place rather than against the formwork. This was the subject of a study conducted by Marc Jolin of Laval University, Quebec City, QC, Canada, and reported in the Fall 2008 issue of Shotcrete magazine. There is virtually no hydrostatic pressure on the forms from the application using the shotcrete process. A copy of this study can be viewed on the ASA WebIt is fine to place shotcrete in two layers on 2 consecutive days, although simply placing two layers on 2 consecutive days won’t prevent long-term drying shrinkage cracking. For the best bond, the surface of the shotcrete on Day 1 should be given a rough broom finish to provide a rough texture for the Day 2 shotcrete to bond to. On Day 2, before shooting, wet the surface of the Day 1 shotcrete to prevent a hot, dry surface from absorbing water from the fresh shotcrete. Please note that the surface needs to be dampened but allowed to dry to an SSD condition. A surface that is too wet can inhibit good bonding. It is essential to moist-cure the shotcrete as soon as it has finally set to help reduce early-age shrinkage cracking. On a hot, windy day, you may need to fog the surface soon after placement with a pressure washer using a fogging nozzle to reduce the rapid evaporation of water from the surface of the shotcrete. Wet curing with a wetted burlap overlay or drip system for at least 3 days (preferably 7 days) is recommended to help reduce the potential for longer-term drying shrinkage cracking. Using macrosynthetic fibers in the shotcrete mixture will also help reduce early-age shrinkage cracking. Because you are in Florida, unless you are shooting in the dead of winter, you may also want to consider using a concrete mixture with up to 20 to 25% fly ash. This will slow down the hydration of the cement and resultant set time to give you some more time to finish the surface and get proper curing started. Fly ash also helps reduce the concrete permeability and increases the long-term strength and is generally less expensive than portland cement. If you use a concrete mixture with silica fume (also called microsilica), it will increase the water demand of the mixture during hydration and has a greater tendency for early-age plastic shrinkage cracks. Thus, if you use silica fume, you will need to pay close attention to keep the surface wet through fogging and then wet curing as soon as it is practical. As previously mentioned, a 2 x 2 or 3 x 3 in. (50 x 50 or 75 x 75 mm) wire mesh would be preferred to reduce congestion of the reinforcement. Stay away from rolled mesh, as it is very difficult (even nearly impossible) to get to lay flat. Sheets of welded wire mesh are recommended. ASA recommends a minimum 28-day compressive strength for shotcrete of 4000 psi (27.6 MPa). A 3000 psi (20.7 MPa) mixture will have a higher water-cement ratio (w/c); therefore, there is more water in the mixture, which will significantly increase the potential for drying shrinkage cracking in the final surface. A 4000 psi (27.6 MPa) mixture is easily achieved with current portland cements and normal supplemental cementitious products such as fly ash. Finally, you mentioned that you will be shooting the surface of a house. You haven’t provided any details about what you are shooting the shotcrete on, but the substrate must be rigid enough to not vibrate when shotcrete hits the surface. If it is not rigid enough, the vibration of adjacent areas of freshly shot plastic shotcrete could cause cracking. This would be more of a problem in the Day 1 coat of shotcrete, but cracks that form in the Day 1 shotcrete would create a weaker section and increase the likelihood of mirrored cracking in the Day 2 layer. Again, please note: While it is appropriate to wet down the Day 1 shotcrete prior to application of the Day 2 shotcrete, it is important to let the wetted Day 1 shotcrete dry back to an SSD condition before application of the Day 2 shotcrete. If the Day 2 shotcrete is applied to a wet substrate (with liquid water on the surface), it will fail to meet the specified 150 psi (1 MPa) bond pulloff strength requirements for the project.